Up early, and having our first cups of coffee and tea of the day. The stillness on the lake in the early morning compared to the bustling lake at 6 pm is an interesting contrast. At about 6 pm, the lake is filled with tourist boats, people going on late afternoon rides, frequently the boats are filled with women dressed with saris, sometimes with children but not with men. After a nice breakfast of eggs, toast, and tea we sat on the porch and listened to David play the banjo, while Jo read, and I journaled.
Then we were off on our adventure of the day to meet Mr. Firdous Ahmad, from Blooming Dale (A House of Handicrafts/ Travel Related Services), the gentleman who has befriended David and offered to do everything he can to make our visit to Sringar memorable. He owns both the Sunshine Hotel as well as the Blooming Dale which was where David tried to book us for that first night.
We took our ride across the lake with our favorite shirakar boatmen, Dustan, and then we walked to the Sunshine Hotel, met Mr. Firdous. He took us through the Old City which was filled with small alleys, with stores lining both sides of the street. Many people were out in the street, including Muslim women dressed completely in black, with a small mesh screen for their eyes.
The Old City was very interesting since many of the buildings are many centuries old. Some of the buildings are built of brick with several layers of wood in the middle and then more bricks; apparently this was done to stabilize the building from earthquakes, although Mr. Firdous says they happen very infrequently. The bricks are very tiny, and all handmade.
Mr Firdous took us to the most famous mosque in Sringar, which we were able to go inside. The mosque was very huge filled with perhaps a thousand prayer rugs where men kneel to pray, five times a day. Mr. Firdous said that on Friday each of the prayer rugs was occupied. Each of the huge pillars in the mosque was made from a cedar tree. The ceiling was quite ornate, and the outside of the building was decorated with papier mache flowers, and the ceilings were decorated with elaborate papier mache designs.
It was quite beautiful and was apparently built in the 1400s, burned at some time, and rebuilt in the 1600s. There was a dome covered with pigeons. Many men dressed in white garments sat around the building and stared at us. Several old people approached, asking for money. I continue to be uncomfortable about not giving money to these unfortunate people and think I will start carrying small change to give.
We were then taken back to Mr. Firdous’ hotel, and given wonderful tea, which he said was made by boiling cardamom pods and cinnamon sticks for five minutes with a cover, then a small amount of honey, saffron, and tea leaves were added, brewed for perhaps three minutes, and the tea was strained and poured. It was delicious, and certainly something I will try at home.
We then headed home in an autorickshaw (different then the ones in Darjeeling) and another harrowing ride back to the Boulevard. Jo and I went to visit Nick the Jeweler who had been so helpful with my ring. The two gentlemen immediately recognized me, and asked how my finger was doing, which was very nice of them. Jo and I looked at lots of jewelry, and picked up several treasures!
Back to the New Flower Garden for a rest, and then up to watch the incredible variety of shikaras on the lake. Jim went out on the lake on the skiff, and then David asked me if I would like to go out with him. It was so special, and lovely. David rowed us down to the portion of the lake just before it opened into a portion of the lake where motorboats and jet skis are allowed. It was so much fun to be out with the other shikaras, and to be part of the busy scene, rather than observing from the deck of the houseboat, as though we were at the beach, observing the people, the waves, etc.
David then took Jo out, and was afraid that the boat was taking on water. He rowed rapidly back, and tried to keep Jo from finding out why they were going back so fast! He was afraid she would panic!
Now, time for my first bucket shower. The water on the houseboat was warm but there was no water pressure. So, the technique is that you fill the large bucket with warmish water, pick up the small measuring cup and stand or sit in the bathtub and pour the water over you. Stop, soap, more water, repeat. Same with shampooing. Overall I thought it was a lot of fun – certainly much better than the 45 degree water shower from the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon!
Transcend space and time as you follow the not-so-newlyweds, Annie, and Miles on their timezone traversing and place-making adventures....
Where are we now?
View Where are we now? in a larger map Jo, Annie, Miles and I are living in Northport, Alabama and working at the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa. We've been glad to be in one place for a bit after what appeared to be semi-permanently traveling (in actuality for a period of 2.5 years).We started this blog to catalogue some of the adventures when Jo and I were sequentially conducting our dissertation research in India and Brazil. While we've fallen off the blogging bandwagon somewhat during recent trips to Brazil, we're trying to pick it up again now that we're back in India!
Thursday, August 4, 2011
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