Where are we now?


View Where are we now? in a larger map Jo, Annie, Miles and I are living in Northport, Alabama and working at the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa. We've been glad to be in one place for a bit after what appeared to be semi-permanently traveling (in actuality for a period of 2.5 years).We started this blog to catalogue some of the adventures when Jo and I were sequentially conducting our dissertation research in India and Brazil. While we've fallen off the blogging bandwagon somewhat during recent trips to Brazil, we're trying to pick it up again now that we're back in India!


Friday, July 10, 2009

Back in SAMPA



So I'm not sure, but from what I can tell people actually do refer to Sao Paulo as SAMPA, as opposed to those flower children posers who refer to San Francisco as Sanfran. Well, regardless, I'm staying at the SAMPA hostel, which is located in the unbelievably large metropolis of Sao Paolo (18 million and counting in the metro region).

My "worst" fears of returning here in the dead of "winter" were luckily unfounded: it's not THAT cold (all the warnings I'd had were from Brazilians after all)....so I'm sitting in shorts (and a very smelly t-shirt that should just be burned at this point as no amount of washing seems to ameliorate its unfortunate condition) and it's 8 am in the low 60s...I know...frigid right?

Anyways, so I'm staying in a slightly different part of SAMPA this time, in a different hostel (as my favorite Oca hostel is under renovation, which is very very very sad). I have a very love-hate relationship with hostels. If it's a nice hostel (like the one in Belem or the Oca) it's great; for US $ 12-15 dollars you get a dorm bed, wifi, shower, bad tv, and breakfast (of marginal quality). But it's a "crap shoot" (pardon the expression) as it depends on how many annoying travelers are staying there at the moment, and how thick the hostels walls are...let's just say here in good old SAMPA there are many of the former and the latter is of as much substance as their travel itineraries.



So judging aside...ok judging not aside: this area of Sao Paulo I'm in is insane! It's like a mix between Sanfrancisco (the hills), Berkeley/North Hampton (the funky), Buckhead (the incredible opulence) and I don't know a few other things. It is sooooo far removed from the 17 de Abril settlement it's unbelievable. On one street I walked past a Russian, Morrocan, Indian, Japanese, several artisan pizza restaurants and microbrew pubs a buddhist meditation center and innumerable art galleries, even the grocery store (where I thought I might be able to afford something) was an upscale version of Whole Foods/Trader Joes where I couldn't even afford the bread...



oh well....now it's pouring and unlike the rain in the Amazon which was cathartic and cooling...this feels like that great rain in October at the beach when all you brought is shorts and a t-shirt thinking it would be warm...where's Rag-R-Rama when you need it?

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Marajo




So I’m writing this blog entry on the ferry from the island of Marajo back to the city of Belem. (for the full story on the water buffalo and the church...well that's a long "story"






As Malinowski (the “father” of ethnography) emphasized, it is important for the anthropologist to take a break every now and then to recuperate and mull over the data one has gleaned from one’s time among the natives. (picture of malinowski) Couldn’t help throwing that one in….and I wonder what the people at the settlement think of me!

Anyways, so I took a mini-hiatus, more for the need of a quiet place to work on my Fulbright application ( a large grant for fieldwork more than a year and a half from now, no we never rest…I know cry me a river) than for the need to ruminate on deep insights. So I decided to head to the island of Marajo, which is approximately the size of Switzerland, and sits in the mouth of the Amazon. Well, four days later it’s official: for those willing to make the trip to Brazil in a year and half to come visit me (that’s approximately June 2011-12 for you OCD planners-you know who you are) a trip to Marajo would be on my list of things to do.

For where else can you get breakfast like this....



after watching this sunrise...






It’s a three hour ferry ride from Belem, which in itself is a fun and exciting adventure as you travel along the coast of some body of water which is part of the Amazon (I think at the mouth it’s just water…fresh, but unnamed…the whole thing is for some reason confusing to me)…anyways, it’s a great breezy ferry ride...until it starts torrential downpouring in the middle of the strait....




and then you get to the island and take a shuttle to one of the three easily accessible towns of Salvaterra, Soure, and Joanes (unless you have a private plane and then you go wherever you want). Each has their own “thing”. I chose Joanes for its relative isolation. And relative isolation I got. The very eclectic pousada



sists on an incredible bluff, getting buffeted constantly by cool breezes.





The rooms are decorated with whimsical paintings ,





and the beach is literally steps away…and on the beach, one does not collect sea glass (as the water body is the Amazon after all) but rather seeds! Incredible, unbelievable seeds! It was so much fun to walk along the beach collecting the most incredible seeds, some bigger than baseballs that I’ve ever seen.





So aside from some quality time in the hammock/or at my desk working on my grant application,




and quality time watching the daily torrential downpour arrive at 2-3 pm ( an amazing phenomenon),



I rented a single speed no-brakes bike (good thing we’re on a flat island and the chain falls off every few hundred meters or I might get above a km/hour). The bike trip was a lot of fun: I just went off exploring and encountered all sorts of fun landscapes, including this swampy area with a very interesting bridge.




A coastal forest



With some seriously spiky thwarting road blocks…..try riding your bike over those…no, don’t



A very “warm” savanna



a gorgeous isolated beach (great for riding around and around in circles on)



and a very interesting Mangrove…



and some generally strange things....like this house that had a fence made of soda bottles...reminiscent of anything anyone...(inside "joke")?



Unfortunately, the threat of stingrays on most beaches kept me from swimming on my bike trip (I guess I could have pe(a)ddled in the water on the bike), but I really enjoyed swimming in the stingray-free waters of the beach my pousada was on. For those of you who like warm waters, this is it! Walk straight in and while away the hours……and then back to the hammock for a breezy nap….

Now Malinowski had it right!


Ok, now some parting shots...it'd be hard to pin down a highlight of this trip...but I think finding this book on "Sting saves the rainforest" might be at the top....




that is until I found this 8x11 spread....puts that old famous "scream" painting to shame...




I don't think I'll ever get tired of looking at this picture...and hopefully you won't either!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Damn I'm good!

To begin with: for those of you who haven't had the privilege of visiting the Weaver's home in Bloomington, IN. the "damn I'm good" reference is to a coffee cup that Jo's grandfather frequently used, and that now resides in the Weaver's house.

Now: Damn I'm good! This slightly egotistical characterization is in reference to the sentiment I recurrently felt on Saturday night. Again, here's the context....

So I wanted to do something special for the three families I have been staying with. Originally I thought I would cook a meal for each of them separately. However, as Saturday, my last day in the settlement rolled around, I realized there was no way I was going to pull off cooking three individual "American" meals...

So I improvised, I thought I'd cook one meal for all the families..and then I thought, wait, I can't cook for the families without inviting all the kids from the youth group I've been with. Sooo...as the rapidly growing guest list (now at around 40) started to cause a panic attack (it was already 2 pm for a 7 pm dinner party), I went into overdrive going to the village's very very sparse "comerciales" (grocery stores that basically sell the very basic staples, rice, beans, pasta, oil, and a few vegetables) to try to find ingredients that I could use to cook an "American" meal for 40 people....what I settled on: a fritatta.

So those who know my cooking skills would doubly echo the title of this blog if they say the preparations, and result:

Ingredients: 60 eggs, a bag of onions, bag of peppers, bag of potatoes, kilo of cheese, and huge bag of steak....

Tools: One dull knife that was probably never meant for cutting, several old pots and large cake pans, an oven that just had an "on" switch, much less a temperature gauge, and a rural clay stove that was built out of mud before the settlement had gotten "development", but are still used frequently....

Workers: Two of the mothers of the houses that I stayed with, their daughters, and a silly gringo

The Process: An amazing and absolutely delightful intercultural learning experience! I "billed it" as an integration of Brazillian and American culture: I taught the mothers how to make a fritatta, and they taught me how to cook beef for 40 people! Considering I've never cooked meat before (much less handled it raw) it was definitely a growth opportunity....







Result: An amazing frittata, cooked perfectly i might add (sorry no photos), forty+ well fed people (perhaps the biggest miracle in itself), and all timelessly integrated into the Youth group's own plan for a going away party for Me!

For while I was running around like an absolute nut, going to people's houses to invite them, getting provisions, like said big bag o meat...., etc, the youth group was planning my going away party. All of this, my dinner party for them, and their going away party was fairly spontaneous and just happened to coincide at the Casa de Cultura (their youth space)...well "just happened" sort of...let's just say I had a vision (damn i'm good)....

So at 8 we started carrying the food into the youth group space. They had the place all set up with a LCD data projector and screen, etc. And then they told me i had to leave, so someone escorted me out, and took me on a somewhat arbitrary and random motorcycle ride around the settlement while the group prepared their event. When we returned, someone stepped outside to indicate that I could come in:

It was very much like the event they had planned to welcome me (although I wasn't blindfolded). Everyone (all 40 or so of them) were crammed into the room, sitting on these red cloths, that are a sort of cultural symbol for the MST. They had me sit on my own cloth in the center of the circle of everyone. And then they began their "mistica", they showed this powerpoint which was a combination of some poetry with John Lennon's imagine in the background. Each person read a bit of the poetry...and then many gave a little "speech" or reflection on my time there...it was VERY VERY touching. And then they gave me a bag of very thoughtful gifts....books of poetry and other literature that they had written inscriptions in and tucked little hand written notes in....I got a chance to give my own reflections...the whole experience was so special and hard to put words to. The photos below probably mean and say more to me than they do to you, but they are meant to just give you an idea of what I'm describing.

The first is a photo of Dona Olinda reflecting on my time in her house...and reminding me that the doors are always open for me there...



The second is a somewhat funny photo of Luis (the settlement's leader whose wearing a green shirt) giving his 5 minute reflection (very latin american political leader style....)



The next of me opening one of my presents: a via camponesa flag (an international social movement) ((I also got an MST flag that I'm very proud of and will go very well in our house...it's red!)



And a picture of us sitting....




As a relative of mine would have said: wonderful people, a wonderful place, and wonderful memories. Just wonderful...

Everyone's a cartographer...

Hard to believe it's my last day in the 17 do Abril settlement, and what a doozy it's turning out to be!

But with every story…there’s a back story, so kick back and get the context, because without you’re lost in space….

So I believe that I’ve mentioned before on the blog my efforts to secure a good accurate map of the 17 de Abril settlement. If you missed that entry, the purpose is to get an “accurate” base map of the settlement (which is pretty large, about 15 miles on a side, with 6000 people, so a little large for me to map on my own); this map will be an integral base (literally) upon which I anticipate overlaying all sorts of other data, additionally having a good basemap as part of an integrated geographic informations system (GIS) database will allow me to make “queries” of the map. For example, if I can obtain data on fire prevalence and forest cover, I can ask the GIS program to indicate which of the 1200+ land lots fit certain criteria, such as X number of fires, with Y % of forest cover….so that’s the background idea.

The background context is that I asked the settlement’s leader, and found out that they do have some maps. He first showed me the giant one which was in pretty significant disrepair (photo); thinking this would be my only copy and chance to see it I took about 70 high res photos that I anticipated laboriously stitching together. Later that day he came by the house with a much cleaner and manageable copy, of which I only took 15 pictures.

Now at this juncture, I thought I was pretty set. I have enough training (I thought) to do what’s called “georeferencing”; the objective of georeferencing is basically to take an image (such as a photo of a map) and place it correctly in geographical space (imagine taking a map of your street and pinning it to a very large map of your town, with the point being to have it match up exactly perfectly so that your house is right where it should be..if that makes sense). What is needed to do this is for one to take between 4-7 GPS points (or waypoints) at known locations on the map. In my case, I thought this would be fairly simple, because on the large map the goverenment showed that there were numbered markers between the land lots…easy…..

Or so I thought! First problem: getting out into the country without transportation (solution: take the school bus out to the roca and walk along the hot dirt roads); Second problem: those “markers” might have been there 13 years ago (or people might have known where they were), but they’re no longer (solution: assume that where the fences (that seperate the lots) intersect the road is where one of the land markers is…and yes, I know what “assume” stands for: something that makes an “ass out of u and me”; third problem: people are sure they know the number of their lot, but it according to the label on the map, they’re wrong (solution: think spatially about the extent of their land in relation to other plots and determine who is actually correct); problem four: the map was made in a hurry and just isn’t correct, i.e. roads do not cross rivers where they “should”, solution tough shit-deal with it. All of this is part of what we call in social science an “adaptive methodology”!

So that’s the fairly long context, to this morning’s doozy. I went to the “associao” (basically the town hall), to have a look at the official big map with the names, prior to trying to head out to the roca for the last time to get a few more GPS points. When I arrived at the associao, I told one of the women who works there that I wanted to see the big map (no big deal, I do this fairly frequently)…so we go in, and as I’m unrolling the map this guy walks in and says “GPS”….and I’m like huh? A) who are you?; B) how do you know what a GPS is?, C) what do you want from me, D) how drunk are you (considering there was a big party the night before and the individual not only smells, but still appears inebriated (aka bebo).

So, I assume at first (remember what that stands for) that it must be someone that’s heard I’m doing something with maps, and that involves something called a “GPS”, which he’s managed to remember and repeat in his inebriated state…and then he goes away…and comes back with his own GPS unit, and starts explaining that he is a free-lance cartographer, that made the maps, and has all of the data digitally!

So my head’s spinning….and it turns out he doesn’t have the data with him on this GPS device (i.e all of the coordinates for the land lots, rivers, roads, everything-which if I could get would save me at least two months of manual work) but on a pen drive about an hour away….so for those of you who know my scheming ways I went into overdrive, trying to figure out a way to rent a motorcycle to get him to his pen drive to my computer….but oh no, he had a better idea…..of course what that idea was I’m still trying to figure out….

So I think in retrospect is that he was trying to help me do what I was trying to do anyway, i.e. georefernce the basemap….and to do this he unearths a stack of several thousand maps of each individual land lot (that were in some random filing cabinet the whole time, of course no one mentioned this to me, which would have saved hours of walking the hot dusty roads), and we start combing through them, trying to find 19 or so known points on the map (the individual maps have coordinates). Needle in a haystack comes to mind…as does the words cluster fhjk!






Now, I’m going to spare you a lot of the other details, like when a political meeting starts in the room, and everyone becomes a cartographer and very interested in finding their lot, and then arguments ensue as the map is supposedly “not correct”, and then we get asked to leave “just for a minute, as it’s going to be a very fast meeting”, go to sit in the small anteroom and get locked in for the approximately 3 hour duration of the fast meeting (rappidigm my ass!).

However, when 4 hours later, when we had finally found our 19 needles, and the strange inebriated man had input “them” into my GPS device…I did a very silly thing. I checked it….

Now this might be another one of those culturally relative things, but in my mind sometimes there’s a right way and a wrong way to do things. Not labelling GPS points would be the wrong way. Especially when the 19 sheets that have the numbers are now somewhere in the middle of that several thousand pages maelstrom of papers….so now I have 19 GPS points and no idea what they REALLY represent.

Of course, I have his email and phone number, and he “promises” to send me all the data…let’s just say I’m not not holding my breath just for the lack of an alcohol smell.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Last sights...

Well, I've been in Belem for three days now, and figured before too much time passed I should post some last images from my time in 17 de Abril settlement.

The first is a picture of Bernard on the hunt (yes, we went again, this time in the daylight, we caught nothing, but he went back out later that night ((I stayed at home!)) and did catch an armadillo...tasty)

(Un)fortunately there are a lot of photos, and to save you/and i the trouble of writing a 1000 words about each one..I'll just put a few words to go with the photos...

Enjoy



A photo of the mother, son and grandson of the last family I stayed with

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A photo of the father and the grandson




A photo of me and the son doing some mental mapping using natural objects of what the landscape of the settlement looked like 15 years ago, at present, and what it will look like in the future.





A photo of me conducting an interview with Bernard




A photo of me taking GPS points



A photo of me doing a focus group with teachers





A photo of a meeting of the youthgroup at the casa de cultura





The circus comes to town!







Pretty cacau...



Bernard maintaining his hunting forest




A photo of Bernard, Dona Olinda, and their granddaughter




Some Macaws sitting in a tree




Altomiro standing beside some of the trees he planted 4 years ago! (yes, things grow VERY fast here)




And a parting shot, Altomiro with his cacau seedlings...the future of his forest

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

the little things

Being in India--or, I would imagine, in any faraway place for an extended period of time--makes me appreciate strange things that I would typically overlook in the states, viz. my new-found obsession with X-Men.

Ya, Hugh, that's just about how I feel when I go outside into the blistering heat (requisite weather complaint: see
http://www.thaindian.com/newsportal/enviornment/heat-wave-will-continue-says-weatherman-lead_100208610.htmlhttp://www.thaindian.com/newsportal/enviornment/heat-wave-will-continue-says-weatherman-lead_100208610.html

nuff said)

So, after seeing the most recent X-Men movie on the big screen last weekend, I have been downloading bits and pieces of the other 3 movies on the internet all week. And I will admit, with some chagrin, that I already have plans to see the film again this coming weekend. I don't even like action films! Or sci-fi films! Or whatever you'd call X-Men.


I had a similar experience recently with a culinary delight called "Suddenly Pasta Salad".

My dear former roommate was kind enough to leave me a year-and-a-half dusty old box of this stuff when she left India. Someone had sent/brought it to her from the US, and she had never gotten around to using it. I thought to myself, "What the hell am I going to do with this?!"...and a week later, it was gone. The entire, mushy, just-add-mayonnaise bacon-bit-flavored box of it. Devoured, with glee.

I recall a similar incident during my year as a student in Banaras involving five people and an entire log of Velveeta "cheese" that had been sent by one of my compatriots' moms.

All of which is to say, India makes you appreciate the little things. This is, in fact, one thing I love about India. Take my new roommate, for instance:

He has been wandering around my kitchen for several days now. This morning I found him moored in the sink, an undoubtedly traumatic experience for him, but it gave me the opportunity to pick him up and feel his sticky little feet clinging onto my hand. He's currently excaped the heat of the kitchen and is hiding under my bureau.

One of these days I'll get around to writing a blog post about my actual research, which is coming along quite well. In the telling it's not very exciting, so I have been trying to think of more interesting things to write about. Basically, I just go to a different clinic every day and wait around for patients to show up. In between, I am doing some networking with professors, professionals, and doctors. The hard part was locating doctors and getting their permission. Now that I have done so with about 13 docs, the research practically runs itself. Sort of.

I will leave you with a parting photo. This was the view from our hotel in Goa: